a whole new egg

April 29, 2008


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I’ve just discovered an incredible new kind of egg: the newest kind. I’ve been buying local dozens from a farmer at the Houston Farmer’s Market who gives them to me in boxes that I bring back to him the following week. Nothing is wasted except the freckled shells. Which are sometimes so pretty that I have trouble crunching them up in the disposal or smashing them against the counter to peel when the eggs are hard boiled.

When you crack a just-plucked egg (although a farm fresh dozen will still taste good after a generous two weeks in the fridge) you’ll feel like you’re staring at a pair of bright, orange eyes. Fresh egg yolks glow. I was so hypnotized Sunday morning pre-breakfast that I forgot to take a photo. You’ll just have to get some newly-hatched eggs and see for yourself.

You won’t need nearly as much seasoning to make them taste good when scrambled, which is my happiest cooking method. You’ll still do well to pre-season your batch with salt, pepper, milk and a squeeze of lime juice, however. Whisk all of those ingredients in a coffee mug before they hit the hot pan. It sounds strange, but you can’t taste the citrus or milk, and your scramble will fluff instead of falling. Re-season at the end, and mid-way through add whatever cheese, herbs or vegetables you like. Goat and cheddar cheeses are great with eggs, as are fresh chives and sautéed shallots or mushrooms.

(If you ever have me over, avoid brie please. It’s just to sticky and strong for breakfast.) Making eggs and bacon in the morning is my favorite way to wake up the house. Add a pinch of pot banging if the aromas don’t do the trick off the bat.

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