Big Sur

November 30, 2009


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Have you been to Big Sur? If so, you know there are few words to describe its blue-gold beauty. I will say this: walk as much as you can, love the person you are with, and don’t miss the meatball pizza at Big Sur Bakery–a very cozy place for dinner. Go there in the morning, too, for croissants and coffee. When the walking wears your pastries off, visit the Big Sur Deli, buy a bottle of wine and a sandwich and picnic on Pfeiffer beach. You will sleep well in Big Sur.


Sometimes, when we walked in the switchbacks of the hills, I thought there would be no earth around the next corner, and that we would fall (in love) to the Pacific.


The water was blue, but sometimes green. The wind was very strong, so I planted my feet hard in the sandy rock so that I would not blow away into the ocean.


We looked very hard for seals, because we could hear them barking when we hiked. They slapped and shouted over the water, and sounded very much like hoarse dogs. But when we got to the water, they disappeared. We did see a lot of deer. Once, a buck stared us down.


We also saw a shrine someone built. We added a rock to the cairn.


The plants were beautiful. Sparse, dry and muted, but somehow also bright. I collected lots of wildflowers, and they spread their seeds in the bottom of my bag, and along the creases of my books.


We took our lunch on Pfeiffer beach, with a bottle of wine, as I said. I was a little bit woozy by 3 and I fell asleep in the sunshine, but not near the seaweed, which smelled very salty.


I watched the water explode and receded around the rock through what some people call “The Hole in the Rock.”


When we were awake, we were hungry again (being on a honeymoon is rather like being a baby) so we went to Big Sur Bakery for meatball pizza and big, crunchy salads. I also ate a bowl of roast vegetables. To be fair, it was Christopher who ordered the pizza.


There were extraordinary things around every corner. Like married life!

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